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Brett's bookBrett Green of "Hyperscale fame" has written an excellent book which is virtually an idiot's guide on how to produce a creditable (and credible!) model of a Bf110 nightfighter using the Revell-Monogram and also the older Fujimi kit.  The Revell-Monogram one is well-detailed, all panel lines are crisply recessed and the fabric finish on flying surfaces is well done.  The cockpit, wheel-wells, bomb-rack and undercarriage legs are all finely detailed.  The kit includes the "schrage-musik" upward firing guns used with such deadly effect.  However, there are two problems -the engine nacelles and spinners are the wrong shape, they're not "beefy" enough, and the rake of the undercarriage legs is too far forward.  "Cutting Edge" models produced a resin correction set for the nacelles and spinners which, although now out of production, I've been fortunate enough to get hold of.  It means major surgery on the wings, it's where I choose to start!

Here's my completed model, apart from the figures who still need painting.  More photos are at the end of this section.


cut outUsing a razor saw, I cut out a portion of the wing extending right back to the flap area, following some panel lines.  I cut inside the lines so that I could trim for accuracy of fit after the cut.  The resin insert is shown ready to be test fitted.

test fitThe first test fit showed that my initial cuts were quite accurate, only small amounts needed to be trimmed to achieve a satisfactory finish prior to filling.  The new nacelle is also shown in this photograph.

Filled nacelleThe small gaps were filled using Milliput and sanded using a very fine abrasive paper.  To the left of the wing root is the wheelwell which had already been cut off from the engine nacelle.  I found this to be the most challenging part of the conversion, getting the position of the cut line right required a lot of measuring and planning. 

wheelwellThe underside showing the detail of the wheelwell and the new nacelle in place.

wheelwell paintedThe wheelwell was sprayed with a grey-green paint, the actual German paint was RLM02.  A thin black wash was put over this, then a very thin brown-black wash to add depth and shade.

It was at this point that I realised that I had glued the upper and lower wing halves together without opening up the holes from inside for the drop-tank legs.....hmmmm!

nacelle gapOnce the remainder of the nacelle-wheelwell assembly was put in place, a gap was apparent at the join which will need to be filled.  Otherwise, the fit appears to be very good though there are small gaps on either side just forward of the leading edge of the wing which will also need treatment.

drop-tank holesBack to the problem of the drop-tank holes, which I had been pondering for some time.  I initially thought of making a template that I could lay over the wing to give me the positions - I tried scanning the lower wing half of my "stand-by" Bf110G2 kit.  However when I looked at the completed wings at a certain angle, I could just make out on the plastic where I thought the holes should be.  So I drilled out the holes on the G2's lower wing halves and positioned them against the G4's, comparing panels etc.  I was then able to drill the holes through successfully.  A lesson there - check the instructions carefully as you go!

drop tankFortunately I was accurate with my drilling as this test fit of the droptank shows.


The floor and sides were painted grey with a light wash of black-brown mix to give it depth.  Wiring looms were painted as were the schrage musik cannons and spare ammunition containers and a base coat was applied to the radar operator's controls.

schrage musikThe schrage musik cannon and spare ammunition drums in place, a very tight fit.

The cockpit is nearing completion.  The control panel has been painted, the gauges lightly brushed to bring out the detail.  Yet to be put in are the pilot's seat, the joystick, the radar operator's panels and the roll-over bar which contains the Revi gunsight for use with the schrage musik.  Two seated figures are supplied with the kit, but I won't be using these so I'll be adding seat belts in the pilot's seat and to the webbing seat shown which is for the engineer and the radar op.  The whole cockpit area has been given a "used" look.

complete cockpitAnd here is the completed cockpit with the pilot's seat in place including seat belts, the roll-over bar and Revi gunsight just visible between the two centre vertical bars and seat belts added to the radar op. and engineer seat.  The final step is putting the port side wall in position:

cockpit planview... like this,so the whole assembly is now ready to be glued into the fuselage. 

trial fitBut nothing's straightforward - a trial fit of the cockpit in the fuselage showed a moulding flaw in the port half just aft of the roll-over bar, not shown clearly in this shot, which will need work with plasticard.

wing trialA trial-fit of the taped fuselage and nose assembly to the starboard wing - a snug fit.  The plasticard insert in the cockpit area is easily seen in this shot.

fuselage-wingA wider angle shot showing the start of the tailplane assembly in place.

The fuselage halves are glued together with the completed cockpit in place.  I decided to use the fuselage from the G2 kit because the moulding flaw aft of the cockpit which is common to all early kits is less obvious on this one and will require less filling.


spinnerThe way that the kit has been engineered lends itself to a modular or unit construction as sub-assemblies - the cockpit, wings etc.  I've started to look at the spinner/propeller area using the correctly shaped Cutting Edge resin parts.  Each blade is moulded separately then fitted into the holes in the spinner, these need to be drilled out to accept the blades so that the pitch can be adjusted. You can't get a better reference than this: Heinz Schnaufer in front of his aircraft chatting to his mechanic.  The relevant parts of the correction set are shown.

The completed props.  The centre caps in the spinner was needed on the Bf110G4 since the aircraft shared the same props and spinners as the later marks of the Bf109s which had a cannon firing through the centre of the spinner.


Both undercarriage assemblies completed.  Brake lines from thin wire will be added then the whole unit sprayed RLM02 plus the weathered wash.

undercartThe completed undercarriage legs. I've added hydraulic brake lines from fine wire and corrected the rake of the undercart by cutting 2mm off the retraction strut (the major struts going aft of the main oleo leg) thereby decreasing the angle.

Nearing completion.


I usually like to have some of the control surfaces of my models in a position other than in-line.  I wondered whether I could cut out the elevators from the tailplane so that I could set them at a different angle.  When I was searching for the G4 kit on the internet, I was offered a G2, also by Revell-Mongram so it shares 95% of the same parts.  I decided I'd use the "spare" tailplane to see how it went.

elevator offIt was time consuming and fiddly work using a sharp knife blade, I couldn't do too much with a razor saw, but finally one elevator was separated.  It only needed a little cleaning up, so I got on with the next one........

elevators...and very soon both elevators were cemented in place....

elevators down...ready for the fins and rudders to be fixed.  The G4 nightfighter had larger rudders to aid manouevrability which was otherwise jeopardised by the radar array on the nose.


Three of these are the flamedampers as supplied with the kit, the "cleaned up" one is that supplied with the exhaust stubs cut off and the corrected ones alongside, the corrected nacelles have the exhaust stubs exiting lower down.  At present I'm probably going to glue the exhaust stubs into the slots in the nacelles and add the flamedampers later on in the assembly because I can foresee difficulties with these items.

There'll be no more progress with these items for a while: two photographs that I have of Schnaufer with his Bf110 (one of which is above with the props) suggest that it may not have been fitted with these over-wing flamedampers.  I'm trying to resolve this situation!

BASituation resolved to my satisfaction: evidence suggests that G9+EF was fitted with straight exhausts which went under the wings produced by Eberspacher as shown here.  This was C3+BA, also flown during March and April 1945 by Heinz Schnaufer, though he scored no victories whilst flying it. 

eber bitsOwl, a Czech-based company producing resin detail parts, have made some Eberspacher exhausts which are shown here.  It looks like it will involve some major surgery in the nacelle and wing roots area.  The PE parts are options for the exhaust interface with the engine, as far as I can determine G9+EF had the type with the smaller cut-outs. 

engineAnd just to make life really difficult, I've got the Verlinden set because I wanted to have one nacelle with the cowling off showing the engine.  The potential problem is I'm going to be, hopefully, mating a Verlinden engine assembly with a Cutting Edge nacelle, with some Owl exhausts and interfacing the whole with the Cutting Edge/Revell wing!!  I hope all the after-market guys have got their measurements and scales right!

Having had a few weeks lay-off whilst the Anson has been built, I'm now ready to tackle this thorny problem!  At an IPMS exhibition last weekend I found a Verlinden Productions book "Modelling, Detailing, Painting, Weathering  WW 2 Aircraft" which included the Bf110G4.  The instructions which came with the Verlinden resin parts were very poor indeed, so I was pleased with 2 photos in the book which helped with the engine: this one which shows the engine and bearers with extra detailing added using thin fuse wire, and......

VP engine installedthis one which shows the engine installed and gives some guidelines about fit.

engine bitsI taped the lower part of the doctored Cutting Edge nacelle in place then lined up the centre of the engine where the prop shaft would be with the "centre" area of the nacelle where the spinner would have fitted.  This enabled me to gauge how much I had to cut out of the solid block of plastic so that the engine would sit correctly, I marked this in pencil.  Also shown laid out in front is the top cowling, extreme left and right are inserts for the Eberspacher exhausts (positioned back to front in this photo!), the engine bearers, engine and oil filter.  Not shown are two supports and a disc which will fit in front of the engine.

cutting outThis is a severe bit of butchery.  In order to hollow out the lower nacelle, I used the razor saw to make a series of cuts to the depth I had previously marked in pencil, then came the tedious business of "whittling away" the plastic but at the same time keeping a careful eye on the depth of cut and taking care either side.

Here's a trial fit of the engine in place, it's looking promising though I think I may be going to have problems with the fit of the Eberspacher exhausts based on the quick "fit" that I done so far.

engine exhausts 1More work on the nacelle and engine has ensured a better fit.  Shown in this photo are the Eberspacher flamedampers, which I'm more optimistic about, having had time to work on them.  The angle of the exhaust stubs onto the flamedamper cylinders is critical, if the angle is wrong the flamedamper will foul the underside of the wing.

engine exhausts 2A different angle showing the cut out area of the solid nacelle block more clearly.  The next job is to add the extra pipelines using fuse wire on the engine.

engine completeI've added extra detail with fuel lines, HT cables etc using 5 amp fuse wire, then painted and dry-brushed it to bring out some of the features.  The inside of the nacelle was painted with RLM02 then sprayed with a very thin mixture of black and brown.

Eberspacher 1The lower nacelle and engine assembly has been glued in place with some filling and cleaning up being done.  A trial fit of the Eberspacher exhausts shows a neat fit, my earlier doubts were groundless.

Eberspacher 2A slightly different angle of the whole assembly.  Soon be ready for pre-shading of panel lines and the first coats of pale blue.


The good thing about the canopy is that there's lots of "glass" so detail of the cockpit interior can be seen, the bad thing is that it's very difficult to paint the extensive framing neatly, accurately and convincingly.  Fortunately, Eduard produce "masks" of tape, pre-cut to each of the glass panels in the canopy.  These can "simply" be peeled off, positioned on the canopy and then sprayed over - being removed once the paint is thoroughly dry.  I haven't used these masks before so this was quite an ambitious task.

Hinge panelI decided to start with one of the easy ones, the part where the crew sit which hinges over.  Note even the small mask where a handle is.  You definitely need three hands for this job, but my handy little "gripping stand" did the job for me.

canopy mainThe main part of the canopy had some trickier curved bits, especially around the aft part, but I developed a technique with a pair of tweezers and a sharp knife which worked well.  I found there is a little leeway with re-positioning if you're careful.  With a brand new blade I re-cut a couple of edges that I wasn't quite happy with.

canopy bitsAfter a couple of hours and a few coffees, all the parts of the canopy were completely masked.  I was apprehensive at first but found it surprisingly easy once I got going.

backingI tried to avoid the risk of overspraying onto the inside of the canopy by lining each section with masking tape........

canopy painted....and then spraying first with the same grey as the cockpit interior, then a slightly lighter grey which will be the exterior colour.

completed canopyThe result is way beyond anything that I could have achieved with a fine brush and "steady" hand - I'm a canopy-mask convert!


wings pre-shadeThe wings in different stages - the one on the left pre-shaded along panel lines and movable parts, the other after being sprayed with RLM76, light blue, but with the black pre-shading showing through.

trial fitOnce the painting of the wings was complete I sprayed the upper fuselage with RLM76 Grey Violet.  A trial fit of the wings showed that quite a lot of work was going to be necessary to get as smooth a finish as possible.

fitted wingsThe wings are glued in place and all looks ok for the upper surfaces - but underneath will need filling in places and trimming in others.  It's starting to look good though I've removed the schrage-musik cannons because when test fitting the main canopy, the barrels didn't fit through the holes.

undercart 1I've added the undercarriage, tailwheel and placed the main canopy in position.

pre-shaded wingsAnother view which shows the pre-shading on the wings quite well......

Plan view.....and another.  Lots of fiddly bits to do but it's coming on well.

s-m compareAnd these were some of the fiddly bits!  The Verlinden instructions were very vague but a lot of close looking with a magnifying glass enabled me to identify the parts for the MG81Z machine guns and the MG FF schrage musik cannon.  When I put these together I could see how superior they were to the ones provided with the kit, shown painted in the above photo.

M/C paintedThese are the Verlinden machine guns and cannon painted and ready to be installed.

471Some significant progress has been made: the flamedampers are in place, as are the props, and the upper surfaces have received an initial spray of RLM76.


472


473


474


groundcrewI've given the model two coats of Klear, I intend putting on some of the decals before adding all of the small, and easily broken parts such as the machine gun, the radar array on the nose, various aerials on the wings, drop tanks etc.  Whilst waiting for the Klear to dry, I got some of the groundcrew figures ready for painting, plus the figure of Schnaufer in leather greatcoat talking to them.

groundcrew detail


decallingI've started adding the decals, I'm not using the ones provided in the kit because "Extratech" do some for Schnaufer's successor to G9+EF, ie 3C+BA, inwhich he flew only a few missions but scored no victories.  I've added the G9+EF codes from the spares wallet.  So far I've spent 2 evenings on the very detailed decals, which even include warnings "Nicht anfassen" ("Do not touch") on the trim tabs for the ailerons, elevators and rudders.  The fresh decals look very stark against the slightly weathered surface, so when they are all in place I'll do a very fine, thin overspray of the whole aircraft to blend them in.

13 7 zoomThe "stag's antlers" array of the FuG 220 SN2c will be the next addition.

fin 15 7And here is the Bf110G4 pretty much finished with the radar array fitted, the main cockpit assembly with the machine gun and schrage musik cannon and the opened pilot's side windows.  See below for more detailed shots.

rear shotThe machine gun was difficult to fit along with the cannons and canopy.

radarThe radar array went together fairly easily. I drilled the holes in the nose beforehand to make sure there was a good place for the small lugs on the array to "key" into.  I used superglue gel (good control of amount and position is possible with gel) to secure the array in place.

15 7 sideA better side view.  I'm not very happy with the small aerials under the wings, I'll probably replace the overscale-looking parts with fine fuse wire. 















 




 
     
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